Seven Days in Tibet (920 hits)
Category: Quotes & StoriesRating: 1.47 on 19 reviews (Rate this item) (V)
Submitted by Durae (View user info) at 2004-07-15 11:34:07 EDT
I'm at an internet cafe in Lhasa right now. If you don't know what I'm talking about, google it. Please, for your own good, just look it up somehow. But just so you know, if you don't know where Lhasa is, and you aren't aware of the political situation here, this story will not interest you.
I'm not posting some stupid itinerary of my trip thus far, which can be summed up as monasteries, monasteries, some old stuff, long bus rides on unpaved, flooded roads, squat toilets, ridiculous attempts at speaking Mandarin, crazy bad Chinese food, excessive amounts of Lhasa beer with my professors, and more monasteries. What I want to share is a brief moment of my day that won't leave my head.
Today was our day off from structured tourism, and silly us we spent it shopping. I had two priorities, one of which was to buy a thanka (tangka, thangka, it's flexible), a traditional Tibetan painting featuring whatever facet of Buddhism. There's a market that circles the Jokhang, the circuit itself is called the Barkhor and is intended to be the route pilgrims take when circumnambulating the Jokhang. Now it's lined with vendors selling all sorts of weird and mundane items. On seeing a thanka shop, not a cart, my companion and I separated knowing we wouldn't be able to find each other again in the throng of pilgrims and tourists on the street. The stuff in the shop was nothing special, but I continued into the backroom to look around anyway. A tall man running the shop announced in clear English that he would turn on the light so I could see better. At first glance I notice that the items in the room weren't much different from those on the street, but I look around anyway out of politeness. The man had stepped in behind me and stood quietly while I perused his crap. Eventually he pointed out a painted skull cap and asked me if I knew what it was. I smiled and pointed to my head then gave him a disgusted look, not sure how well he spoke English. Then he asked where I'm from. I told him the U.S. and I asked if he's Tibetan (sounds like a stupid question standing there in Tibet and all, but there has been a massive repopulation of Chinese into the area and now over 50% of Lhasa is Chinese). He told me he's from north of Lhasa (no wonder he's so tall, they're strong people up there), he studied English at a monastery. My reply was that he speaks English very well and I asked him if he is a monk. He told me that he used to be a monk, but now he runs this shop.
"Why aren't you a monk anymore?"
"I had problems with the government."
People here are not supposed to talk about this.
"What monastery were you in?"
"Sera."
"Oh, we went there two days ago and saw the monks debating. Did you used to do that?"
"Yes, we would debate Buddhist philosophy."
"They looked happy."
"They are happy. Monks don't have to worry about money so they study all day. They are the happiest people in the world."
"Do you miss it?"
"Yes."
"I'm so sorry."
At this point the sadness of the situation hit me and I didn't know what else to say because the conversation was dangerous to both of us, so I walked back into the main room and looked at his thankas. He stood over me and explained the symbology of a few, including the depiction of Shakyamuni Buddha's life story. I asked him how much, and he priced them at 60 yuan. For your reference, the exchange rate is 8.2 yuan to the American dollar. I hesitantly bargained and asked if he could go lower. Then he showed me the written price on the thankas: 200 yuan. The 60 was a special price for me and the lowest he could go. I bought a bluish one featuring the wheel of life.
Seeing the strip mall that Lhasa has become is one thing, seeing the pain in a former monk's eyes and hearing it in his voice is another.
User Reviews
Submitted by Omnivexed (user info) at 2004-07-30 02:15:33 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
I always wanted to travel, but I'm too lazy and broke. Now I've experienced Tibet
vicariously through you though photos would help. You should post some of your
drawings too, then again people here aren't very nice and might end up discouraging your
artisitic future. Yeah, just photos.
Submitted by Scott_James (user info) at 2004-07-29 03:24:54 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by Yenegi at 2004-07-23 09:41:56 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
Sigh...
Submitted by jjkk (user info) at 2004-07-21 13:12:55 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
That really sucks.
Submitted by Yenegi (user info) at 2004-07-21 12:58:13 EDT (#)
Ranking: 1
I have a real name now, I used to be "Big Al." Durae, check out my first post "The Human race?" It's right up your ally, actually.
Submitted by Big Al at 2004-07-19 16:27:36 EDT (#)
Ranking: 1
Very interesting!
Submitted by Durae (user info) at 2004-07-16 08:27:09 EDT (#)
Ranking: 0
He is Not allowed to talk about the situation now, that's partially the point. That's not the way the PRC likes to run things, but I don't feel like going more in depth because of the amount of beer I've had.
I miss you too man.
I didn't realize anyone would be interested in pictures, but since there is expressed interest, I will. :) Lojo, you're going to see them anyway duh.
Back to drinking. After a ten hour bus ride on unpaved road I think I freakin deserve it.
Submitted by corn_nugget (user info) at 2004-07-15 19:40:36 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
Did you see Brad Pitt while you were there?
(haha, bad time for a joke maybe?)
It is interesting how much our ability to travel has changed the wonders of the world.
I wonder what problems he had with the government? Judging from his eagerness to talk about things he's now allowed to talk about- seems like he might have just been the type to argue the rules?
The situation in Tibet is awful.
Submitted by lojope (user info) at 2004-07-15 17:30:40 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
I agree about the pictures. You'd better post some.
Submitted by jumpinjellyfish (user info) at 2004-07-15 16:54:29 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
This is interresting...thanks.
Submitted by JMG114 (user info) at 2004-07-15 16:01:36 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
Sometimes, it takes a lot of pain to remind us of what beauty truly is.
Submitted by vodka7tall (user info) at 2004-07-15 14:27:45 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
It's sad that a post like this one that's actually about something gets only 66 hits.
Submitted by spedmonkey (user info) at 2004-07-15 12:20:53 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
Buddhist monks are the coolest people ever.
Submitted by riggyrow (user info) at 2004-07-15 12:08:02 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by loki (user info) at 2004-07-15 11:55:51 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
that is sad - damn
ps. post pictures
Submitted by cat_head (user info) at 2004-07-15 11:43:32 EDT (#)
Ranking: -1
Monks do have to worry about money, or at least about the security of their lifestyle, which let's face it is all about money anyway.
My conclusion concerning this post: big deal.
Submitted by lojope (user info) at 2004-07-15 11:38:18 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
So sad...
I really have no response to that.
I miss you.
Submitted by Despiadado (user info) at 2004-07-15 11:35:38 EDT (#)
Ranking: 2
Free Tibet.
I saw that on a hippy's shirt.
Submitted by negative2man. (user info) at 2004-07-15 11:34:45 EDT (#)
Ranking: -2
No Comment