5 Days of Hell on Denali: My Second near Death Experience on a Mountain (1738 hits)
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Submitted by ahumblefool (View user info) at 2005-12-13 16:38:37 EST
As requested, here you go. The best I can anyway.
The year was 1997, the year a mountain came close to taking my life. My climbing buddies and I have tried to write a book about the experience, but we have found that it is impossible to relay to a reader exactly how we felt and what we experienced. Two great books that come real close are "Into Thin Air," and "Touching the Void."
This is a recap of 5 days of hell; I still wake up from dreams shaking at times, and have found that occasionally I have emotional bouts of remorse from the experience. (Anywhere that I say she, I am referring to the mountain. I call all mountains she.)
Denali has a very short climbing season, May through July. It is unlike any mountain in the world, with a 20,320 foot elevation, its uniqueness lies in the fact that its base sits at sea level, so it is seen as the greatest vertical climb in the world. Second, its barometric pressure is different from the high peaks in the Himalayas, with temperature ranges from 32 degrees to -40 degrees in a matter of hours. Third and most important, the weather on Denali is brutal, winds can reach 120 mph and sustain for days on end, sometimes weeks; snow fall is not measured in inches but feet an hour; bizarre ice clouds have been known to hover over the Kahiltna Pass where birds try to fly through it and freeze to death. Denali is a monster among monsters, an although thousands climb it each year, and only 88 recorded deaths have taken place, the stories that come from climbers rival those of Everest.
I was training on the lower levels of Denali for high altitude rescue climbing; we were climbing between 11,000 to 16,500 feet for acclimation purposes and to train our bodies to different oxygen levels. We had been on the mountain for five days, in decent weather for Denali, when the Denali Mountain Rangers contacted us about two missing climbers located at the 18,750 foot level of McKinley. The situation was critical as the weather was set to change in the next 24 hours, could we cover one route while they covered the other? My route leader and trainer said yes, even though the team was exhausted from training and a major change in weather was expected. We were well acclimated oxygen wise, so we packed our gear and made our ascent to the last recorded location of the climbers. We were unaware that in a matter of hours she was going to make us her bitch, use us and dispose of us as she saw fit.
Day One:
I remember looking at my watch and seeing that the time was 4:23 pm when the team spotted the cloud. At first we thought it was an avalanche, but it was moving horizontally across the face of the mountain, not vertically. From where we stood, the air was still, blue skies shown above, and not a single flake was falling. Not one of us was fooled by what was heading towards us; it was a wind whipped cloud of snow, a blizzard so incredible in size that it shadowed the mountain as it moved. The guy next to me turned and I remember so clearly him saying, "We are fucked man, fucked." It was a race, man against nature, who would be faster. Could we set up our tents in time, or would she take us. In a frantic movement of arms we set up tents, placed avalanche lines and roped the teams together, three teams of three, a total of nine climbers. We almost had won when it hit. A wind so fucking brutal that it knocked us over, a complete white out in a matter of seconds. Maybe some of you have experienced a white out. If you never have, step into a closet, see if you can see your hand in the dark, and now imagine that as pure white, no realization of up or down. Now imagine a wind of 85 mph whipping hard granules of snow into the air, acting like sandpaper against any exposed part of your body. Feel if you can the unbelievable drop in temperature from 23 degrees to -15 degrees in a matter of seconds. Your body instantly thrown into shock, blood forced to the vital areas of your body. Hands refusing to work, legs instantly numb. Struck blind with only a tether between you and death, I can not describe it.
The teams were able to struggle into our tents. Now, we were using alpine tents with wind ratings of 105, so we felt sure that we would be okay as long as the winds did not increase. We were trained for this, so we were sitting around talking about it, "Have you ever?" "Naw me neither." "Yea, this is training." As the first night began to set, the team was very aware that this was no quick storm, we were staying here for the night, so we fixed up a batch of Lipton's soup, pulled out the beef jerky and a set of cards and decided to make the best of it that we could. The wind was not yet strong enough that if you shouted, you could still hear the other team members in the tents, so we kept in communication.
Day Two:
4:00 am next day. "Hey, wake up, the tent is collapsing." So much snow had falling that our tent was being buried, the side that faced the wind was drifting, (That is why you never set your tent up with the door facing the wind.) I volunteered first duty to go out. Jesus, I wish I could explain it, I mean, just stare at a piece of white paper and you will get the general idea. I was instantly blinded, the wind had increased, and I was terrified. I was tethered and as long as I could feel the rope was tight, I knew I was relatively safe. I called out to the other teams, but the wind stripped the words from my mouth. Even with all my weather gear on, the cold was brutal. I kept one hand on the tent and wiped with the other. If this did not stop, we would need to perform this every couple of hours.
We spent the entire day in the tent. Radio contact with the other teams let us know all was well. No one expected the storm to last longer than the evening.
Day Three:
1:00 am. We were deep into night two. The wind had increased, the snow was falling at such a rate that hourly tent clearings were needed. The temperatures were easily in the -30's by this time, our sleeping bags and clothes were barely able to keep us warm. Team three reported that one of the members was starting to suffer from altitude sickness, suffering from hourly blindness.
5:00 am. Altitude cramping set in. When you can not move around, your body can not distribute blood efficiently, as it needs to keep the warm blood closer to the vital organs. You then begin to suffer muscle cramps that make your Charlie horse look like a love tap. Try not to scream in pain when one of these takes hold.
1:00 pm. Report from base. The storm is not breaking, and the worst was yet to come. Could we dig in? In other words, could we build a Snowcap, they were afraid our tents would not hold. Gusts of 130 were expected by nightfall with heavy snows. We informed them that it was not possible, we were in severe white out conditions and that at this rate, and we were going to run out of food and fuel. Nothing anyone could do, we needed to weather out as best as we could.
6:00 pm. Fuck me. When I thought it could not get worse, it did. We felt the temperature plummet, our bodies shaking in clothes and sleeping bags. The wind shook the fucking mountain. A thousand angry bees thrashed our tent. She wanted to kill us, and I knew that if a break did not come soon, we would die up here. We decided to sleep in shifts so we could watch for hyperthermia in our team members.
Day Four:
2:15 am. I wake to screams. I think it is only a dream, but I can hear the screams of team members. The wind is thrashing the tent, the poles bending by constant gusts of mountain hatred. The survival rope goes taunt. We turn on the radio, as the batteries are getting low, and we never expected to be here this long. I can barely make out what is being said, but we here that team two's tent has evaporated and they are moving towards us. The rope stays taunt as they move, and in a matter of minutes we have six people in a three person tent. Their tent had been torn apart, all the gear lost in the wind. Two had lost sleeping bags, we were in a world of hurt.
6:00 am. The cold is a bitter ache throughout my body. We are taking turns in the sleeping bags, the close quarters is leading to sharp tempers. Our fuel is nearly out, and food is scarce. My body cramps in places I never imagined possible. The pain is constant. The wind is beating the tent, the air is stagnant with six people, it feels hot and fetid. Going to the bathroom has not been easy. Our bodies stink of sweat and days of not bathing.
3:00 pm. No radio contact with team three. No radio contact with base camp. There is a good possibility that we are going to die up here. We have pulled on team three's survival rope, it goes taunt but no one is pulling back. No one says anything, but it is generally assumed that team three has succumbed to the weather. It is so mother fucking cold.
11:00 pm. "Get off the mountain. Can you hear us, you need to try and get off the mountain. Descend to a lower altitude immediately," They are unable to hear our replies.
Day Five:
1:00 am. Three of the six team members have the beginning of frost bite. Two are showing signs of serious frost bite, they will each lose part of a finger and a couple of toes by the end of this. The cold is so severe that team members are falling in and out of shock. We are no longer able to stay awake.
2:46 am. "Shut up! Quite acting like a fucking pussy. Can you not die with some fucking decency," I shout. His body is locked in the worst cramps. Bed sores are beginning to form from lack of movement, his pain is one that I am thankful I am not experiencing, but I also know that I am not far away from it either. Tears are streaming down my face, and the others begin to cry uncontrollably as well. The stress is eating us alive, and the cold is quickly stealing what life we have.
3:15 am. I can not wake up one of the team members. He is in severe hypothermic shock.
4:05 am. I am writing my last statements. The wind is deafening. I tell my wife I am sorry, please tell my son that I love him and that I am so sorry. My hands keep cramping in pain, but I continue to write, realizing that I will never see them again. I find myself nodding off and snapping awake. The others around me are doing the same thing. Each one looking at photos and writing the last words to the ones they love. We are willing ourselves to stay awake, and care for those that can not move, but self preservation is beginning to take over.
6:00 am. I wake to quiet. A stillness that is so great I can not explain it. I think I have died, but I realize the wind has stopped. I am warmer as well. Unzipping the tent, the sky has returned to blue, the mountain again sleeping. I am weeping like a punished child. Crawling back into the tent, I wake the other four; I still can not wake the sixth team member. The radio crackles, unbelievably it is team three, and they are all alive and survived the storm in a snow cave they dug.
9:00 am. Dragging those team members that were unable to move, we descended to a point that a helicopter could pick us up.
After two days in the hospital, I was released. I had minor frostbite and lost nothing. Two others were not so lucky. One nearly died of hyperthermia, but they were able to revive him, he was in the hospital for two weeks recovering. The climbers we were sent to rescue were not recovered.
I have been asked to go and climb her at least five times since then. Something within me pulls to go, to show her that I do not fear her. But I do, I fear her with all my heart. I have seen what she can do, and I do not want to ever go through that again. I have been invited to Everest, but I know what she can do as well. The bodies that line the climb up are all the warnings I need. Bless those that go, be safe, but I will read about your adventures and care not to live them again.
User Reviews
Submitted by Zebra (user info) at 2006-11-29 03:00:45 EST (#)
Ranking: 1
Touching the Void was an amazing film.
Submitted by HighVoltage900 (user info) at 2006-11-23 20:57:48 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Still hard core.
Though you should hear about my camping trip to Shenandoah valley. It reached 50 degrees at night! Talk about hard core.
Submitted by Phallic_Cymbals (user info) at 2006-11-23 20:36:42 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Sick
Submitted by Orgasmatron (user info) at 2006-11-22 13:23:03 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
For God so loved the world, he gave us his one and only humblefool.
Submitted by Falco (user info) at 2006-01-22 03:52:04 EST (#)
Ranking: -2
It had to be done
Submitted by wookie (user info) at 2006-01-12 14:07:08 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Man, it's not going to be a trip like this...but I had to re-read Into the Wild after reading your last post--the Timothy Treadwell one--and I think my next trip is going to be a trek down Stampede Trail to see Fairbanks bus #142. McCandless' story really resonated with me.
Although, at this point I'm thinking it might almost be a tourist destination complete with t-shirt stands along the way.
Submitted by Mike00295 (user info) at 2006-01-12 09:04:47 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Holy shit man. This is amazing.
Submitted by spedmonkey (user info) at 2006-01-06 21:27:49 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by Bubba2341 (user info) at 2005-12-18 18:53:51 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Excellent story, very well-written.
When I was a little kid in Geography class, that mountain
was called Mount McKinley. Isn't Denali some sort of word
from the Inuit?
Submitted by Bob_Dole (user info) at 2005-12-15 00:26:13 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
to respond to your question from my post:
mostly in the SE US. i live in florida (begin dick-shaped-state jokes) but i've gotten as far as virginia. most of what i've gone up is man made and of what isin't man made- nothing with an angle higher than 45degrese. I don't do nearly as much climbing as hiking. Put on a lot of miles on flat terrain all over the state though.
I have a 2-week run to Yellowstone planned this year- want to start around heart lake, head towards lewis lake, and get to Overlook Mountain... roughly 10k ft--- but i'm definitely going to wait for the weather to be a bit friendlier. i dont have the balls to do it in the winter, or go anywhere near the conditions you went through. I'm eventually aiming for Eagle Peak... 11358ft, but thats another year- with a bit more experience under my belt.
Submitted by TigerLilly (user info) at 2005-12-14 13:45:59 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by Brdn_Nkd (user info) at 2005-12-14 13:36:48 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by sleepingmonkey (user info) at 2005-12-14 13:25:40 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
no comment
Submitted by Pentameter (user info) at 2005-12-14 13:20:56 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Amazing.
Submitted by SilvrWolf (user info) at 2005-12-14 13:09:34 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by Phinch (user info) at 2005-12-14 12:01:17 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Submitted by Bob_Dole (user info) at 2005-12-13 22:42:26 (#)
Ranking: 2
i've done a lot of camping, a lot of climbing, and spent a considerable amount of time on a lot of hiking trails.... but, now- i feel like I've never left my backyard.
My well-worn boonie hat off to you...
----
what he said.
Submitted by Wrightcopy (user info) at 2005-12-14 11:06:32 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Submitted by Nellypaal (user info) at 2005-12-14 05:50:45 (#)
Ranking: 2
And I was bitching 'cause there was a slight chill on my way to work this morning...
-------------------------------
Yeah, a few days ago I was bitching because we got more than a foot of snow. It's good to hear stories like this every now and then. I think it makes us all really think about how good we have it and how bad it can possibly get. A foot of snow? At least I could manage to go outside without literally dying, damn.
Submitted by CaptainThorns (user info) at 2005-12-14 10:37:58 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
And another +2 for surviving that shit. Puts my camping story to shame: http://www.ubersite.com/m/58343
Submitted by littledan (user info) at 2005-12-14 09:22:14 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
I can't even comment on it...
Submitted by TigerLilly (user info) at 2005-12-14 09:04:08 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Just cause I felt like it.
Submitted by TigerLilly (user info) at 2005-12-14 09:03:37 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
you're a remarkable human being. i wish only the best for you and your family.
Submitted by CaptainThorns (user info) at 2005-12-14 08:51:28 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
TERRIBLE! -2DIE
Just kidding man - this was excellent. And to think people complain about the pussy-temperatures at the top of Pike's Peak. Bring on more of your climbing stories!
Submitted by BLITZKREIG_BOB (user info) at 2005-12-14 07:54:21 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Riveting.
Submitted by Flying_buttmonkey (user info) at 2005-12-14 07:46:13 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Fucking awesome. I can't work out whether you're seriously fucking cursed or have the best luck I have ever witnessed
Submitted by thecaes (user info) at 2005-12-14 07:25:06 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Submitted by Orgasmatron (user info) at 2005-12-13 16:51:09 (#)
Ranking: 2
Like a +2 is enough for this?
I'm in awe over here after reading this. Slack-mouthed awe.
************************
I love reading a post that teaches me something about the world that I didn't even think was possible, or ever existed.
Wow, dude. Respect.
Submitted by Berty (user info) at 2005-12-14 06:35:10 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Hardcore.
I'm always amazed that people with families can be so cavalier with thier lives. Why? Why would you go up there? What possible good could come from it?
I guess you've just got to be 'that kind of person' to understand.
Submitted by BadAssJulie (user info) at 2005-12-14 06:19:08 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Now I kind of feel bad for bitching about freezing my ass off if the temperature drops below 60. It never even gets lower than like 40 or 45 though because I live in California.
Submitted by Nellypaal (user info) at 2005-12-14 05:50:45 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
And I was bitching 'cause there was a slight chill on my way to work this morning...
Submitted by celine (user info) at 2005-12-14 05:34:21 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
You never disappoint.
Submitted by ozzy (user info) at 2005-12-14 04:38:40 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
This is one of the best posts I've ever read on Uber.
Seriously, you need to write/finish writing a book on this.
Submitted by Davros (user info) at 2005-12-14 04:38:40 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by rad1101 (user info) at 2005-12-14 03:11:30 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by jagmcmanus (user info) at 2005-12-14 01:13:42 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by pope_ridiculous (user info) at 2005-12-14 00:45:39 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
sick.
Submitted by ghola (user info) at 2005-12-13 23:45:22 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by Bob_Dole (user info) at 2005-12-13 22:42:26 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
i've done a lot of camping, a lot of climbing, and spent a considerable amount of time on a lot of hiking trails.... but, now- i feel like I've never left my backyard.
My well-worn boonie hat off to you...
Submitted by LadyPlural (user info) at 2005-12-13 22:22:36 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Jesus fuck. That's utter insanity.
You should have killed your tauntaun and huddled in its steaming innards for warmth.
Submitted by Astropath (user info) at 2005-12-13 22:09:41 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
All the respect in the world for PJs, SAR Techs, Mountain Rescue, and EMS. You need some kind of cojones to do that type of work.
Submitted by Lmarie22000 (user info) at 2005-12-13 21:38:32 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by Saxon (user info) at 2005-12-13 20:00:01 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
What an experience.
Submitted by Yes (user info) at 2005-12-13 18:52:01 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by matnotharry (user info) at 2005-12-13 18:19:50 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Incredable
Submitted by HighVoltage900 (user info) at 2005-12-13 18:13:09 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Yeah. Wow is right.
Submitted by MyTeeOne (user info) at 2005-12-13 17:56:38 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Wow.
What the hell else can I say.
Wow.
Submitted by EatMeCompletely (user info) at 2005-12-13 17:37:41 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Whoa.
Submitted by loki (user info) at 2005-12-13 17:24:58 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
dear god
this sounds like being in space kind of
stay away from GodChicken, you two will end up dead if you hook up on one of these little adventures
The highest I've been is the Bristlecones in the White Mountains of CA at roughly 14,000 feet. It's really odd, everything I did felt like I was under water.
damn boyeee
Submitted by a_palindrome (user info) at 2005-12-13 17:10:49 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
No Comment
Submitted by ahumblefool (user info) at 2005-12-13 17:05:50 EST (#)
Ranking: 0
Submitted by GodChicken (user info) at 2005-12-13 17:01:38 (#)
Ranking: 2
http://www.mtnguide.com/ProgramDetail.asp?program=23
pictures for people who have no idea what this could entail.
_____________________________________
Great link, thanks for that. Explains a lot.
Submitted by MistressFist (user info) at 2005-12-13 17:03:11 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
+2 for Denali. I would love to see it someday.
You should not be humble after that feat, and nor are you a fool.
Submitted by GodChicken (user info) at 2005-12-13 17:01:38 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
http://www.mtnguide.com/ProgramDetail.asp?program=23
pictures for people who have no idea what this could entail.
Submitted by RamJetMax (user info) at 2005-12-13 17:01:18 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
That was incredible.
Submitted by Orgasmatron (user info) at 2005-12-13 16:51:09 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
Like a +2 is enough for this?
I'm in awe over here after reading this. Slack-mouthed awe.
It's settled: I'm naming my first son Ahumblefool. Ahumblefool Orgasmatron.
Submitted by JonnyX (user info) at 2005-12-13 16:45:58 EST (#)
Ranking: 2
fucking awesome